In SorTex, pre-sorting is seen as the key to placing collected textiles at the highest possible level in the waste hierarchy so that they can be recycled and given new value. But what does pre-sorting actually mean? This article dives into the definition of pre-sorting and different sorting fractions.
Pre-sorting can be defined as the first rough sorting that is done when the textile is collected. Those responsible for pre-sorting will often end up with a mixture of many different types of textiles and objects. These may be textiles that are unsuitable for both reuse and recycling - for example, because they are wet, moldy or very dirty. There may also be items that are not categorized as textiles - such as cushions, shoes or prams - but still end up as textile waste. And finally, there are textiles that are suitable for either reuse or recycling.
Today, pre-sorting is handled manually, removing non-textiles and unsuitable textiles by hand. In addition, textiles that are too good to be recycled into new products are set aside because they can be reused as they are. The remaining textiles that are to be recycled in new ways are then sent to machine sorting - also known as fine sorting. Here, using sensors and robotics, the machines at the sorting plants can sort the textiles by color and material. However, the machines can't assess the condition of the textile or sort out non-textiles. That's why pre-sorting is important.
During pre-sorting, the textiles are sorted into five different main categories - also called fractions. These main categories are:
Textiles suitable for direct recycling
In this category are textiles that can be used as they are. They are too good to be sent for recycling and should instead be recycled. These can be clothes that are only slightly worn or where the color has lightened slightly. It could also be clothing that was bought incorrectly, where the price tag is still attached and there are no signs of use.
Textiles that are suitable for repair and can then be reused
These textiles can be reused as they are after some minor repairs. These can be textiles with small flaws, such as a small hole that can easily be patched or a missing button, but which are otherwise in good condition.
Textiles suitable for machine sorting and recycling
These are textiles that are suitable to be recycled and transformed into new fibers, threads or fabrics, or that can be used in other types of products or materials. This could be clothing with large holes, open seams or clothing that is simply worn out.
Textiles that are unsuitable for both reuse and recycling
This category refers to textiles that are in such poor condition that they need to be sent to landfill. This could be due to mold, moisture or that they are very dirty - for example, full of oil stains, paint or other stains that cannot be removed.
Non-textile
In this category, you'll find items that don't really belong in the textile category, but are often thrown away as textile waste. This includes items such as prams, shoes, duvets, cushions, car seats, etc.
Below are pictures from the NewRetex sorting facility. Here you can see good examples of how non-textiles end up in textile waste.
